Victoria Bartlett explained her collection as an “architectural approach to pulling pieces apart and putting them back together…redirecting fabrics.” That translated into ample layers, fabric mixes (including fake furs and leathers) and numerous split levels, delivered with edgy eccentricity. Bartlett used various techniques to give the clothes structure, for example, high, inset waistbands that added form to otherwise soft dresses and skirts and “shifting seams” that created quirky, irregular shapes and off-center elements. The most overt example: the big, hairy knitted half coats that left a girl covered on one side and stripped to her undies on the other. In more straightforward mode, Bartlett showed a lovely gray cowl-back shift edged in purple and a cream pullover with soft pants in an abstract Wade Guyton-inspired print.

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