Trying to read a seasonal trend into a Christophe Lemaire collection is an exercise in futility. The designer, who doubles as creative director for women’s ready-to-wear at Hermès, moves his vision forward in increments. His fall lineup focused on what he considers the seven wardrobe staples: overcoat, blouse, suit, pants, sweater, boots and belt. Particularly strong was the military-inspired outerwear with peacoat lapels, rendered in everything from black wool to weathered khaki canvas. If the mustard yellow high-collared shirt and baggy pants combo looked a little dated, the navy silk jumpsuit and perfectly tailored white shirt would make welcome additions to most wardrobes.

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