Shown in the intimacy of a showroom this season, Glenn Martens’ collection was one of his quietest — and chicest — to date.

While the designer continued to mix his dark medieval mood with a street sensibility, these clothes felt more streamlined and pure than previous outings. Long voluminous T-shirt dresses in pale blue satin or layered cotton mesh flowed gracefully, while architectural shoulders and sleeves on tailored pieces gave the illusion of a single flat panel. Faux fur was intriguingly bonded on Neoprene V-neck tops and paired with long skirts with zippers down the back for a simple, elegant look.

As for his dark side, Martens showed one print, a dark brown kaleidoscopic composition of primitive Flemish paintings. Even more spooky though were the models’ white contact lenses that veiled their eyes’ irises and pupils.

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