Marcel Marongiu went for the classic Marlene-Dietrich-getting-in-touch-with-her-masculine-side theme for his fall Guy Laroche collection. His show notes emphasized the contradictory ideas of “fierce femininity” and “radical masculinity,” which came together in an incongruous clash. Robust outerwear, such as boxy shearlings with lots of zipper details and a single, elegant cape, made sense — the look has been current for a while, and Marongiu’s offer was as good as any. But the rest of the lineup jumped from leather wrap dresses to a draped-sleeve blouse and trousers in monochromatic purple to harness tops worn under suits and sometimes plastered with chunky embroideries for evening.

Marcel Marongiu went for the classic Marlene-Dietrich-getting-in-touch-with-her-masculine-side theme for his fall Guy Laroche collection. His show notes emphasized the contradictory ideas of “fierce femininity” and “radical masculinity,” which came together in an incongruous clash. Robust outerwear, such as boxy shearlings with lots of zipper details and a single, elegant cape, made sense — the look has been current for a while, and Marongiu’s offer was as good as any. But the rest of the lineup jumped from leather wrap dresses to a draped-sleeve blouse and trousers in monochromatic purple to harness tops worn under suits and sometimes plastered with chunky embroideries for evening.

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