For several seasons now, Isabel Marant has eschewed the impromptu tomboy/girly-girl mix-and-match that has put her on the map in favor of overt Americana-driven themes: Hawaii by way of Vegas last season, spaghetti Western the season before, and so on. To some extent, fall was a welcome return to her improvisational Parisian roots with a relatively understated collection based on comfort and layering.

Marant mostly dealt in monochromes, opening with a series of navy looks before progressing into ivory and black. A tight, stretchy silhouette — leggings, some done in leather and suede, and fitted sweaters and dresses with multiple hemlines and suggestive anatomical seams and stitching — provided a solid canvas for big coats and the evolution of Marant’s viral hit wedge sneaker, now shown in strappy, furry bootie versions. For further accent, there were silver studded scarves and belts.

That was basically the look: skinny and scant, or loungewear with a kick, whether by way of stretch pants and body-con sweaters with cutouts ’round the bust, or flimsy printed dresses with hefty outerwear and shoes doing the heavy lifting.

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