After showing his past Jay Ahr collections presentation-style, designer Jonathan Riss made a runway debut that was about breaking down dress codes. Extra-short, flouncy skirts in wool or leather were offset by oversize angora sweaters for a sporty-sassy attitude. Even a floor-sweeping crepe skirt gave off a laid-back vibe when topped with a loose V-neck blouse. More artsy were Riss’ jersey looks with chain-embroidered jacquards. Backstage, the Paris-based Belgian designer said he worked to fuse two different ideas into one construction, a cue he adopted from the architecture of emerging cities, where traditional landscapes mix with contemporary structures. Built on black and creamy tones with touches of silver and powdery rose, the collection looked sharp and glam.

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