Rather than fanciful musings, Bill Gaytten’s John Galliano show notes simply described “a disciplined silhouette” with “geometric cut, drape, tough attitude and texture.” The pragmatism made perfect sense in the context of Gaytten’s fall lineup, which moved the brand another step away from its namesake founder and toward a cleaner, more commercial look.

Gaytten amped up the volume with a subtle futuristic vibe, showing, for instance, a rounded cocoon jacket with a form-fitted skirt. There were also some nice coats, like the burgundy opener with folds across the front and a geometric peplumlike detail.

While the designer did away with Galliano’s runway theatrics, he didn’t quite abandon the founder’s codes altogether. They appeared as soft hints with bias cuts, geometric folds and kimono sleeves.

Much of it was appealing, and if the lineup lacked some of that Galliano punch, it was most likely intentional. Gaytten needs to continue putting his own stamp on the brand to evolve it with credibility. Fall was a step in that direction.

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