Starting with the fall collection, the designer decided to unite his masstige Karl range and the more upscale Karl Lagerfeld Paris line under one label called — you guessed it — Karl Lagerfeld.
It was a smart move, given the flattening of the high and low fashion worlds, and it yielded a better balance between Lagerfeld’s rocker and couture personas. The women’s collection was loaded with feminized Karl-isms: white shirts with contrast collars and trims; slim wool dress coats with pyramid studs on the collar, and lean denim with biker details or done in glossy finishes. Camouflage jeans, actually composed of Lagerfeld’s iconic cameo, underpinned a cool group in army greens, with shirts and dresses trimmed in leather.
The men’s wear was just as succinct: cummerbund pleats jazzing up shirts; panels of quilting on sleek leather blousons, and meaty sweaters festooned with toggle closures.
Shown on racks in Lagerfeld’s new boutique on Boulevard Saint-Germain, the presentation only served to accentuate the clothes’ commercial appeal.