Stuart Vevers made full use of Loewe’s leather know-how in his collection for the Spanish house, which featured outfits made from napa stiff enough to stand up on its own. It was used in plain black on an hourglass jacket with brass rings running along the outer seam of curved sleeves, and appeared in a rubber-coated lipstick red on a sporty blouson-skirt combo that evoked a toughened-up Hitchcock heroine.
Vevers introduced a new handbag, the Amaya, made of smooth calf leather with stirrup-style brass hardware dangling from straps. There is always an ambiguous streak to Loewe’s equestrian-inspired looks, but this season the fetishistic elements were more overt: skirts split open to reveal the tops of stockings and suspender belts, and shoes with stiff brushlike trims along the back of the heels.
Despite the more fluid elements, like silk blouses with blue-and-white ceramic-inspired prints, this lineup felt overly conceptual.