Martine Sitbon continued to evolve her Rue du Mail aesthetic with clothes that were coolly Parisian — not of the innocent variety, but feminine with a slightly subversive edge.


Sitbon started with a striking oversize herringbone pattern, shown on a belted voluminous coat and then a chic, tailored version with a fur collar and sleeves. She countered the mannish feel with pretty floral motifs. They looked lovely when worked as peekaboo details on velvet dresses, but the papery blossoms on multicolored devoré dresses were a bit much — they would have been beautiful without the extra decoration. Some of the appliquéd embroideries of stemmed flowers had a hint of Prada’s spring collection.

For evening, Sitbon offered Lurex shift dresses that were particularly appealing in rusty shades of red. The touch of glitter exuded a youthful glamour that felt just right.

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