The key motifs in Chitose Abe’s fall collection were trenchcoats, English countryside classics and biker jackets, which, as usual, she expertly dissected and reassembled into her intriguing hybrid fashions. By dealing in sturdy, sporty tradition — inviting windowpane plaids inspired by English hunting gear, rich navy and burgundy velvet and flight gear fabrics — she offset the inherently complicated nature of her splicing methods with a new sophistication and even practicality.
The silhouettes were grounded in tailoring, relatively straightforward in the front with nice dramatic volumes in the back. The first look fused a trompe l’oeil velvet dress with a caped-back trench in army green — one of Abe’s many inventive propositions for novelty outerwear that could actually have a future in reality. Other standouts included the sturdy wool plaids, such as a boxy top with a navy cape back, worn over matching slim pants with sporty nylon inserts.
Zebra-striped knits and new takes on Fair Isle sweaters, some done with feather and fringe details, offered a wintery edge, which was a nice evolution from Abe’s often sweet and girly mode. Also new were bags, done in collaboration with the Japanese brand Porter.