Hidenori Kumakiri seemed to take inspiration from “Mad Men” for his fall collection, which he showed in a hotel bar with audience members seated in leather armchairs. A live three-piece band provided background music as cigar-smoking models in pantsuits and chiffon dresses made a loop around the room. Colors were mostly neutral, with the odd shock of magenta or teal in the form of a faux-fur jacket. Pleated and cropped trousers, swing coats and suits were worked in luxurious wool flannel in gray pinstripes, black and beige.

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