Christopher Raeburn was once again inspired by the Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson’s “Last Days of the Arctic” exhibition at London’s Proud Gallery, the starting point for the men’s collection that he showed in January. Warming to his theme, he paid homage to the stoicism of female explorers like Louise Boyd with a collection that veered from the subtle femininity of seasons past.
The three-quarter length, boxy, boiled wool pants are unlikely to be filed under flattering, but Raeburn’s outerwear was as sharp as ever. Sticking to his trademark repurposing of fabric, Raeburn turned Siberian officers’ sheepskin coats into truly wonderful toppers. One had black leather sleeves and a hood, while another was sleeveless and layered over a long-sleeve T-shirt. A black merino wool sweater fronted in black faux fur was beautiful.