David Koma plies a hard-edged, body-conscious brand of chic. He telegraphed it for fall via leather grids caging the torso, occasionally cut out to revealing slices of midriff.
Most of the dresses were short and sharp, Alaïa-esque with their skater shapes, use of leather and geometric decorations. Long tubular and cropped square coats had strong shoulders and came in demonstrative glossy cobalt ponyskin.
While Koma cited Renaissance painter Lucas Cranach the Elder as an inspiration, the show had a futuristic edge, which is probably why Mugler in Paris recently tapped Koma to be its new artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear. (He is to show his first collection for resort in June.) To be sure, the clothes were finely crafted and buffed to a high gloss.