Emilia Wickstead took a tougher, more masculine approach to her refined silhouettes. Taking inspiration from film noir, the designer rendered her Fifties-inspired, feminine shapes in unexpected fabrics.
A full-skirted day dress with a nipped-in waist was done in soft black leather or a snakeskin print, while the designer also gave a an edge to a tailored, calf-length sleeveless dress in powder blue with a Gothic black rose pattern etched across the fabric.
The designer contrasted her figure-skimming fare with roomier, mannish pieces. Some — such as a leather robe-style coat, edged with pearl embroidery — were a little tricky. More successful were the rugged, herringbone wool overcoats worn over the models’ shoulders, or laid-back suits with palazzo pants, in bright white or deep orange.