It was very nearly a scene out of ye olde London Fashion Week: a dark, cold and cavernous show space in East London replete with strobe lights and a half-naked man wearing a leather fringed skirt playing a screeching guitar.
Unlike those rough-and-tumble days, Giles Deacon’s show was a slick, thought-provoking effort (and it started on time). Deacon said he was looking to channel an “aggressive melancholy,” adding that he wanted to delve into nature and examine things that were beautiful but dangerous. That translated into a print that combined thorny vines and kingfishers, shown on tops and dresses in gentle cape shapes, and a color palette of orange, bright blue and black taken from the bird’s feathers and beak.
The protea, a spiky flower, was another motif, here embroidered with sparkles on a black leather jacket, while fluttering white beetle shapes were sewn onto a black dress. The effect was fun rather than foreboding, and there were plenty of winners: coats and short tailored jackets in a lime green plaid; short, sleeveless dresses in black or white with flourishes and folds in contrasting colors, and long chunky sweaters that doubled as tunics, a Deacon signature.