Jonathan Saunders created a naïve, offbeat mood with this collection, which read more conceptual than commercial.
Among the more challenging looks were stiff wool coats with exaggerated, puffy shoulders, randomly patched with squares of contrasting fabric in deep red, gray and camel. There were also shift dresses crafted from swatches of navy pinstripes, maroon and sky blue fabric, accessorized with severe pointed heels and tan tights.
The models’ pink-rimmed eyes, wan faces and determined gait heightened the unsettling quality of the show, as did a set consisting of stacks of old loudspeakers and TVs flickering with static.
But amidst the experimental fare were some more approachable takes on Saunders’ ideas: a long bias-cut dress done in a checkerboard pattern of gold devoré velvet; a series of oversize, heavy wool sweaters. One ensemble — a big mint-blue and gray sweater paired with a bias dress in silver Lurex — telegraphed a glamorous cool.