Synonymous with bold, digitally generated prints, Mary Katrantzou turned off her computer this season and explored different ways of decorating clothes, primarily via lace, brocades, pleats and chain mail. It yielded an intriguing collection that was more approachable and luxurious than ever.
Uniforms were the jumping-off point for the show. “TNT, DHL, policemen, bankers, butchers,” the Greek designer rattled off backstage. Along with road signs, badges and crests — corporate symbols of belonging — were a particular fixation. Katrantzou lined them up to create very unconventional guipure lace, which she cut into sweatshirts, minidresses and evening gowns for a surprisingly fetching effect. The dense, overly busy formations of crystal-flecked badges on the front of mink sweatshirts and long, narrow-sleeved gowns had a whiff of recent Valentino.
Amidst all that decoration, some of the plainest clothes were the most striking, including lean wool topcoats, long skirts in color-blocked knife pleats and chain mail dresses, draped on the bias. Katrantzou should unplug more often.