Michael van der Ham stumbled upon a copy of Intro, the irreverent Sixties fashion magazine, in a secondhand book dealer’s shop in Covent Garden. That, along with the low-budget 1995 film “Party Girl” starring a clothes-obsessed Parker Posey, were the starting points for his upbeat collection.
Van der Ham toned down his collage style by working in a floral jacquard that mixed shiny and raw silk into one fabric. The Sixties references showed up in the bright color palette — orange, cobalt, peach, yellow, red — and guipure lace separates and shift dresses, while the Nineties played out via layering. One peach lace dress had an underlayer of sheer peach chiffon attached to a border in the same lace, giving the impression of a dropped hem. That deconstructed hem was seen throughout on skirts worn with intarsia knits and printed sweatshirts.
The show closed with a group of pretty cocktail dresses. The best of these had a cantaloupe-hued velour bodice and a navy skirt embroidered with shredded chiffon rosettes and pellets of Swarovski crystal.