For his fall collection, Paul Smith harked back to the days before high streets were packed with clothing shops and the big brands dominated. “People would dress in pajama jackets and dressing gowns,” the designer said. “They would make clothes out of curtains! That’s how they made their statement.”

That translated — literally — into a show where models wore printed silk jackets and languid trousers that resembled pj’s, as well as dressing gowns and three-quarter-length dresses made from a patchwork of prints, some of which were inspired by Turkish carpets.

An old wallpaper motif with flowers and swirls decorated the jacquard jackets and coats, with sleeveless sheepskin vests in inky blue or flame red reinforcing the collection’s Sixties bohemian flair.

Other looks were more subdued and tapped into Smith’s signature androgynous aesthetic: Flat-front trousers came slouchy and paired with jackets, both skinny and cropped, while black suits were done in combinations of pinstripes and polka dots.

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