Roksanda Ilincic’s polished collection with an Arte Povera feel was filled with patchworks, humble materials and a jumble of contrasting colors. Long, sculptural dresses and skirts were made from deep red felted wool insets with dark blue and burgundy panels, while orange neon flashed from under bright-blue dresses. Mannish coats had a thick chevron pattern in alternating shades of dark blue and black, while furs were a glorious grid of clashing colors and textures: shearling, fox, lamb’s wool and mink dyed in rich primary hues.
Embellishments, meanwhile, resembled broken bits of Legos and plastic baubles that spilled down the front of dresses.
Ilincic said that among her inspirations was the basic architecture of places like Africa and Brazil, and that she used a collage of fabric, rubber and plastic leftovers for the lineup. The conceptual artist Mel Bochner and the sculptor and installation artist Jessica Stockholder, both known for their use of punchy colors, also fueled the designer’s imagination this season.