Simone Rocha tapped into a rugged, yet regal, vein with her beautiful fall collection. “Elizabethan” and “rebellious” were influences that the designer cited in her spare show notes, and those ideas emerged in dresses with poufy knee-length skirts that nodded to crinolines. Rocha worked them in both black wool and a shiny khaki snakeskin-printed leather, adding rows of chunky amber-bead embroidery sometimes at the hip, other times at the neck.

Cocooning outerwear looked great. One navy wool coat had ruffles at the elbows and neck, while a shaggy sheepskin coat was adorned with a harness of heavy crystal beads.

Rocha’s finale of dresses — fashioned in either pale organza embroidered with gold thread or in a bright red lattice pattern of frayed wool on tulle — were wistful and romantic, but the subtle details subverted all the prettiness. The skirt on one dress, for instance, was asymmetrically stitched to the bodice to expose a glimpse of the hip.

Rocha has managed to remain true to the quirky femininity that’s becoming her hallmark while still finding inventive ways to interpret her ideas. This season, her plan worked like a charm.

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