“When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way,” said Tom Ford. And swing he did.
A year after making his London runway debut with a collection that was, as he put it, “beaded, fringed, embroidered, colorful, blah, blah, blah,” Ford’s fall effort was light years away from that maximalist memory.
It was a streamlined and strong lineup, from the simple velvet shift that opened the show to Stella Tennant’s finale look — an austere black cashmere felt gown with built-in poncho, something Georgia O’Keeffe might have worn. Santa Fe, N.M., and London, Ford’s two principal residences, fed the twin themes of the show: iconic styles from the American West and the pert proportions of the Swinging Sixties.
Forgetting the fishnet hose and the cowboy-style boots with iron spike heels, the designer replaced overt sexiness with a sporty allure. Wool tunics and tops had simple necklines that were either slashed or lace-up; hooded sweater dresses came with kangaroo pockets.
It wasn’t all quiet fare, though. Cue the red croc skirt suit with boots to match, and Karen Elson in a color-blocked, laser-cut fox chubbie. (Old habits die hard.)
But the look that will send Twitter into overdrive is Ford’s sparkling dress bearing the number 61 — “My year of birth,” he said with a groan. It’s actually a riff on the $65 counterfeit Ford football jersey that Jay Z has been wearing to perform in stadiums. “I knocked off the knockoff — in sequins,” Ford deadpanned.