One of Milan’s rising talents in men’s wear, Andrea Incontri is still finding his way in women’s wear.

A Formula 1 theme, telegraphed by a looping, track-like runway and screaming engines on the soundtrack, seemed a bit forced. “Not ready-to-wear, ready to go!” he enthused backstage. In an effort to bring an urban edge to his ladylike coats and dresses, Incontri added rows of utility pockets and thick industrial zippers and glossed up fuzzy fabrics with panels of plastic coating.

The best looks were less stiff, particularly the fit-and-flare coats with fur panels and a series of gored knit dresses and skirts, that swished seductively.

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