Who knew the big bad wolf could inspire such a beautiful collection?
Antonio Marras orchestrated one of the most transporting and romantic spectacles of the week, stitching together references that included the villains of “Little Red Riding Hood” and “The Three Little Pigs” — plus Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach — into a compelling narrative that fed his artfully patchworked clothes.
Schwarzenbach’s androgynous style and travels throughout Asia came through in Marras’ inimitable compositions involving men’s wear and military fabrics, both of which he spliced with exotic prints and delicate crystal embellishments. The coats were especially gorgeous. Mostly egg-shaped, they were fronted with panels of shaggy lamb, lace appliqués and upholstery brocades embedded via needle punching in decorative contrast to plain tweeds in back. Elsewhere, embroidered tulle sidled up to mannish tailoring, and curtains of pleats mingled with pinstripes and Lurex on languid, layered dresses.
Wolves figured literally — howling animals printed on satin coats and dresses — and subliminally, as in the vaguely Forties hairstyles, victory rolls that resembled canine ears. For the finale and requisite Instragram op, models mounted a scaffold and gathered around a silvery moon.