Anna Molinari subjected her Blumarine standards — short, suggestive dresses and slim, sexy tailoring — to a Far East treatment, working with kimono effects and opulent fabrics, such as duchesse satin in rich, imperial colors and floral motifs. Reinterpreting traditional Asian garb is tricky territory that can result in costumes or kitsch, but Molinari, who is not prone to understatement, handled it with relative subtlety. She packaged the potent colors and floral jacquards on clean cuts, such as satin minis that came in neat origamilike folds and a boxy floral top over skinny satin pants. Quality fabrics were key, even when things segued into a tarty, party-nights direction as hemlines rose, necklines plunged and Molinari broke out the gold lamé.

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