Ennio Capasa likes to give his Costume National shows an arty spin, so the Triennale Design Museum was a fitting choice of venue. Guests were greeted by an installation by artist Bastiaan Arler featuring dancer Maria Novella Della Martira performing yoga poses surrounded by a giant diagram with words like “family” and “authority.”

 

Capasa said the art was about confronting order and chaos, the rigid and the fluid. He set out to do the same with his clothes, which contrasted the masculine and feminine by mixing tailoring with more casual shapes. There were floor-sweeping military-inspired coats and fur jackets with extra-long sleeves. Suits paired long double-breasted jackets with jogging pants, including one version done in traditional pin-striped wool.

Capasa’s luxe take on athleticwear was appealing, especially a polo top and jogging pants in light gray flannel, shown under a sweeping black coat. And for evening, a black gown with a tuxedo-collar neckline worn over slim trousers and “flatforms” (brogues set on thick soles) made for a compelling vision of modern femininity.

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