Part sporty, part constructivist, a trifle Nordic and everything else in between. Karl Lagerfeld’s exhilarating Fendi collection was strong on great clothes, moving in so many directions that a trail of joyful chaos was left behind. The cool live-cam drones buzzing over the runway added to the feeling.
“A mix of sport and sophistication, no period references,” Lagerfeld said backstage after the show. His first few looks, including a chic hourglass coat with fur-lined hood and several lean black-and-navy dresses and separates, suggested an arch ladylike vibe. But then Lagerfeld moved into busier territory, particularly with several ensembles covered randomly with tufts of fur, a few also with mesh insets. Needless to say, there was a lot going on.
The innovative furs were remarkable: Some coats were graphically patched together like camouflage; other tops and coats came gorgeously embedded with starry night crystals. And for a touch of nostalgia, fresh orchid corsages were chicly pinned on top of many of the furs. They were informed, Lagerfeld said, by Billie Holiday’s rendition of “Violets for Your Furs.”
The bags and shoes were chic but largely overshadowed by the mini-Karl Bag Bug done in three kinds of fur. Cara Delevingne opened the show with it dangling from her fingers and then, still holding the charm, she twirled around in front of Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi during their bow. Furry Karl — a whimsical gimmick to punctuate an upbeat show.