It was open season on outerwear at Max Mara, where coats have achieved fetish status. For fall, an Anglo-Scottish approach to sleeveless trenches, puffer vests and waistcoats, plus a nifty cardigan/coat hybrid, yielded a bounty of gorgeous hearty English tweeds, herringbones and Prince of Wales plaids that made one long for an invitation to a hunt at a country manor — be sure to befriend the landed gentry.

New takes on the sporty puffer featured quilted tailoring — on vests and coats cut with easy volume — done in unique blends of tweeds and plaids. They came layered over long, chunky ribbed sweaters in moss green and brown for an undercurrent of very luxe grunge; the plaid shearlings were not to be missed.

The collection evolved toward urban sophistication with more minimal gray, black and camel pieces. Some of these had contrasting panels of slick, PVC-coated material and gold croc-print down the back, which felt like an unnecessary bid for creative edge. The riffs on Max Mara classics can stand on their own.

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