Charlotte Rampling was the muse behind Fiona Cibani’s pretty Ports 1961 lineup for fall. “I was at a vintage market in New York and I found one of her books from the Seventies,” Cibani said, pointing to a photo of the actress shot by Helmut Newton. “So I created the collection because of one book and one woman.”

It translated into sexy yet slightly androgynous clothes, much of them with military references, that played on contrasts — masculine versus feminine, stiff versus fluid — all with a controlled elegance. A sculpted felt jacket came belted and over a matching wrap skirt, a fitted leather trench had rounded lapels. More flowing looks included a silk chiffon kilt skirt and black salopette trousers with a cotton poplin and organza shirt.

The beautiful coats were also worked in contrasting shapes: A double-breasted style had a belt decisively cinching the waist, but a caban with fur collar came in an oversize shape. It all felt powerful but at the same time extremely sensual.

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