With his former chief executive officer Jeffery Aronson’s departure and an ambitious move to a new studio and offices, Ralph Rucci is coming off an eventful year. Change was apparent on the runway as well, with Rucci showing a collection that was smaller and less dramatic than in the past. Lengths were shorter, gowns were slender and the prints seemed less serious. Still, it was beautiful and perhaps a bid for a broader and younger customer.

Rucci worked subtle detailing with sheer insets and strokes of color in a primarily black palette. There were slanted hemlines on dresses and coats and allover embroidery on an elegant leather shirtdress. The graceful wool jersey dresses were standouts: one in black came piped in red and buttoned in front and back; another in black and taupe had curved sleeves extending from the waist.

As for Rucci’s furs, they were fabulous, especially the ruby-sable cocoon coat, the black-and-lavender patterned mink sweater and the wrap in Barguzin sable and black leather.

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