The topics covered during a preview of Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters’ fall collection ranged from the introduction of their “fur program,” established in part to flag Creatures of the Wind as a luxury line (in case there was any question) to their “knitwear program” to the “ideas of transcendence and monastic clothing,” which Peters said informed their creative concept.
The strange scope of the conversation is no doubt music to the ears of the Dock Group, the investor group that last year took a financial stake in the label. Gabier and Peters seem to have no problem reckoning the aesthetic idiosyncrasies that built their profile with the practical demands of business.
The collection they showed on Thursday was a testament to this, an evolution of eclectic wearability and creative refinement. The fur was parceled out as accents, on baseball caps and as a built-in stole on the fabulous black-and-white mohair wrap coat that opened the show. The knits came as bright and cozy sweaters that gave softness to the structured fabrics the designers tend to favor. A hefty wool twill, for instance, was used on an evening skirt and a silk jacquard jacket that looked like wood grain.
As for the transcendence, it was more straightforward than it sounded. Many of the silhouettes were based on traditional eastern garb — kimono tunics and wrap pieces styled in long, lean layers. And the color scheme of pretty pinks and purples, plus the occasional embroidered butterfly detail, channeled a mellow, happy state of mind.