Houston, we have a problem. So thought many of the startled guests when the metal-plated back wall of the Diesel Black Gold runway came crashing down with a thud. But then, emerging from the glaring white light, the first model came dressed in a fur-lined silver leather moto jacket and low-rise jeans — the first of the collection’s sharply tailored, on-brand looks. Creative director Andreas Melbostad said backstage that his process began with the idea of an astronaut suit.

The series of silver leather (and sometimes white) was an obvious nod, as was the fun retro dresses studded with metal, mirrorlike disks. The rest of the mostly black lineup, full of retail winners such as low-rise jeans and body-con jackets, was mixed in with the bolder pieces.

These were not groundbreaking clothes, but they offered a refreshing view of when creativity and commerce meet in the middle.

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