Duckie Brown is in the women’s business. That point was so crystal clear that it overshadowed Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s men’s wear effort for fall. “Duckie Brown has always been about English tailoring and women’s wear,” said Cox. “And this time we put Duckie Brown on [real] women and used softer fabrics.”

The attractive looks included tailored pants in both flowing silk and silk duchesse fabrics, some paired with voluminous A-line Neoprene tops. The designers also reworked classic men’s wear motifs, using, for instance, a macro Prince of Wales print and multicolored checks on a textured wool coat.

The men’s group, inspired by eveningwear, was too dependant on shiny silk fabrics, i.e., the ultrafitted work coat worn over flowy, pleated red pants. A more convincing result came when the shine was given a masculine spin, such as with the voluminous polo and slim cigarette pants in monochromatic sage green.

In order for Duckie Brown’s signature men’s wear to get its due, separate shows might be the way to go.

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