Jason Wu is banking on this winter not being an aberration. “It’s just so cold outside, all you want are clothes that are bigger and cozy but that hug the body underneath and are chic, too,” he said before his show. “Couture meets North Face.”
Though double hyperbole, the point was well taken as Wu delivered a lineup of dressed-up clothes with an emphasis on sturdy outerwear in large-over-lean proportions. If a bit flat at times, the prevailing mood was smart, updated power-chic. Rounded-shouldered jackets and coats were cut amply and tapered toward the hips; metal bar closures (Wu’s take on “Velcro”) provided graphic decoration. Beneath, some clothes skimmed the body while others featured languid tailoring. Wu paid a great deal of attention to his cuts, splicing and seaming for subtle distinction.
Texture was his other major statement. An astrakhan-inspired embroidery adorned dresses and separates while the outerwear came in combinations of skins, fabrics and furs. Among the hits: a black double-faced peacoat with shearling collar and a lilac alpaca coat with raccoon collar.
Evening worked the artful side of languid, “a new way to work with the body thing,” Wu said. Perhaps so, but his embroidered chiffon gowns owed a considerable debt to Donna Karan. These were lovely and refined in their sensual allure.