The upcoming Charles James show at the Met, the draping techniques of Madame Grès and the Forties served as inspiration for Lorry Newhouse’s elegant presentation, shown vignette-style in the Soho House library.
Newhouse has a love of vintage and techniques of yore — she unearthed one factory on Long Island that still does the Forties-style shirring that appears throughout the collection.
A beautiful neutral palette of brown, camel and navy predominated her day looks, which featured a gorgeous brown silk crepe dress with swaths and drapes in all the right places. The lone white dress, a sharp-looking number with piped seams, crisp collar and nipped waist, was accented with her new belt collection. Newhouse is also introducing scarves and elbow-length gloves this season, and they accompanied most looks.
The era’s inspiration was most evident for evening. Silk charmeuse spaghetti-strap gowns with open backs and draping on the derrière were set against a gray wool felt bustier dress with a voluminous layered skirt, and a black and burgundy version made from an exquisite French fille coupe fabric.