As snowflakes dusted the city Sunday night, warm Belgian chocolate dripped down the wall of Opening Ceremony’s runway. It was a cool visual, one inspired by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s recent trip to Antwerp that got them thinking about everything from the city’s food to its folklore to its shipping industry. The duo’s interpretations ranged from minimalist to overt.
Asymmetric hemlines and texture was abundant on the outerwear-heavy lineup. The mix of synthetic and natural fabrics looked particularly fresh, i.e., a quilted ripstop bomber jacket worn with a fingerprinted wool sweater and shearling full skirt. (The finger and hand prints nodded to the mythical giant Antigoon who, folklore has it, chopped off the hands of anyone who dared not pay his bridge toll.)
For men, there was a strong athletic influence and many elements of protection. A three-in-one, single-garment coat that the designers called a “chest plate” was made up of vest-over-color-blocked jacket-over long quilted parka. There were also harness sweaters and boxy tops with zippers that, when open, showed off an elongated silhouette that played nicely off the straight-leg pants and hardy boots.