Peter Som tends to cater to the perky, peppy types — Carrie Underwood, looking pretty in pink, was at his fall show, for example. Yet Som explored darker territory with this collection to impressive results.

There was a Mod-ish undercurrent to the pared-down silhouettes and palette — a lot of blue, gray and black with the occasional shot of orange. He also took a measured approach to color — save for one orange getup — and feminine decoration, which made both all the more effective. Jeweled embellishments were placed sparingly on skirts and dresses; simply cut tops had ostrich feather peplums, and a beautiful series of blurred floral prints set on black were pretty and not at all precious.

Then there were the printed fur coats — two goat hair, one leopard print, one herringbone print — that made a lovely pairing of whimsy and sophistication.

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