The lean silhouettes of Reed Krakoff’s fall show mostly comprised sporty tops and midcalf-length skirts wrapped around the waist like a stylized sarong. Krakoff tweaked the proportions, building them up with hefty outerwear like a sleeveless coat in robust pony and shearling and a cropped shearling bomber. He played with the idea of fluidity versus structure, showing some skirts in viscose, while others came in painted python and black leather, sometimes in graphic collages. The heel of a pointy ankle-strap pump had a fuzzy white fur heel.
“It was the idea of creating a luxury that can be overt,” said Krakoff after the show. Fur, leather and exotic skins are traditional signals of luxury in the fashion world, but too often Krakoff went overboard. There were moments of chic control, such as a camel cashmere coat with a cool mannish fit and a chunky ribbed cashmere cardigan with shearling elbow patches. Krakoff tried to mix it up — as with the collages — but even the disklike treatments on skirts and dresses resembled scales.