The undercurrent of arty eclecticism that consistently courses through Thakoon Panichgul’s collections, whether in a romantic, subversive or intellectual direction, took a quirky turn for fall. He proposed a magpie aesthetic, built out of offbeat prints and proportions, that made for awkward pairings at times.

Press notes said Patagonia was a key reference, apparent in the psychedelic floral prints — fuchsia blooms set on a deep purple background — and an emphasis on artisanal knits. Colorful, cropped ribbed capes and funnel-neck ribbed scarves topped many of the looks with a homespun appeal. There were charming moments and unique, strong items — the printed puffer outerwear especially — but the lineup lacked Panichgul’s usual polish.

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