The challenge for a designer with a highly specific aesthetic, such as Maria Cornejo and her circular cuts and architectural proportions, is keeping it new and relevant. Neither seemed to be a struggle when it came to her stellar fall collection, which coincided with the 15th anniversary of her label.
A recent trip to Chile and the Andes mountains was prime fodder for the polar tracksuits that opened the show: four serene beauties dressed in white baby alpaca outerwear including an incredible hooded poncho, and tapered pants with elastic cuffs. They looked like chic mountaineers on a mission to cuddle.
Cornejo developed the South American cues into hand-knits from Bolivia and graphic tapestry jacquards on drapy jackets and kaftans, grounded in edgy silhouettes complete with robust furs and leather pants.
There was a uniform quality to the lineup, urban tribal at first, then moving into something more stark and strict with crisply tailored blue-and-white shirts worn with hefty black pieces. Everything was linked by a sense of graphic purity, which turned unquestionably elegant for evening with kaftan dresses done in floating, featherweight organza and a black cagelike lace baja layered over a corset and sequined pants.