Ten years ago, Akris left its St. Gallen nest for the big stage that is Paris Fashion Week. During that time, the Swiss house grew on a global scale, impressively so, especially in the U.S.
On Sunday evening, Albert Kriemler marked this moment with one of his strongest collections to date. It featured a striking collaboration with Thomas Ruff, inspired by an exhibition on the German artist he saw in Munich two years ago. “I thought it had to be something special,” Kriemler said before the show, referring to the milestone. “When I got my thoughts together in November, I just called him to see if he was ready.”
The designer selected images from five of Ruff’s series — among them “Stars,” “Nights” and “ma.r.s.” — and used them as the base for motifs and embroideries. A sweet silk georgette dress in red, and a variation in green, featured an abstract Ruff Photogram print, for example, while night images of German homes graced coats and dresses in a moody interplay of architecture and silhouette. Less commercial were LED-equipped pieces including a coat, pants and three dresses that, when lit, read like a starry night.
When he wasn’t referencing art, Kriemler worked a sophisticated vibe with great furs and crisp looks including a white double-face wool A-line dress with a plunging neckline, a chic gray alpaca parka shown over a knitted top and red silk faille skirt and a black mink patchwork coat. These pieces had modernity and ease — a winning combination sure to help fuel Akris’ next decade in Paris.