With Ann Demeulemeester’s recent departure, designers Sébastian Meunier, Mirjam van den Akker and Patrick van Ommeslaeghe aimed for a smooth transition. They accomplished it by playing it safe.

The trio honed in on Demeulemeester’s rock ’n’ roll vibe with a nearly all-black lineup that riffed on some of the founder’s best silhouettes. For women, pieces came draped, layered, tweaked and tied, including several dresses with a subtle Grecian feel and caped, drapey trench coats. The men’s complemented the look with tailored coats and flashes of gold in sporty jackets and glittery Lurex socks.

The lineup had a commercial polish that, while still plenty cool, lacked Demeulemeester’s depth.

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