It appears that Anthony Vaccarello has little interest in developing his range as a designer, preferring to tweak a very specific aesthetic, one he continues to do very well, from season to season without moving the baseline much. The look is an imposingly sexy mix of lean tailoring and very short dresses.

Within that, like many designers this season, Vaccarello zeroed in on coats to add coverage to his taut, leggy looks. In fact, his sleek, substantial motorcycle jackets and shearlings in rigorous cuts upstaged the skimpy stuff. The leather dresses and skirts with cutouts at the clavicle and patent-trimmed ruffles that curved around the bodice and hips still generated heat, but not as much as — literally and figuratively — the great outerwear options, which also included a long satin evening jacket and a sassy red patent bomber that gleamed like a candy apple.

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