Guillaume Henry took great pains to stage a cinematic fall show. Lighting technicians suspended from the ceiling lit the models manually as they walked the runway before ascending a grand staircase, many of them grasping clutches to their hearts in a gesture of attitude. The affectation underscored the collection’s confidence and sophistication, a rebound from some of the runway tricks Henry’s been up to the past few seasons.
He rebooted the classic Forties noir heroine for today with riffs on neatly tailored suits done with cropped, belted jackets and skirts that were either short and flared or to the ankle with sexy, zippered slits. Working in saturated colors such as deep crimson, mustard yellow and teal, Henry tweaked proportions with curled collars traced in zippers and exaggerated sleeves, showing short hemlines with killer thigh-high boots in thick, slouchy black leather.
Toward the end of the show, the plotline took a turn toward the Surrealist with hand, shadow and crystal arrow motifs, which were charming. A lean, long-sleeved dress featuring a collage of a woman’s face with the eyes scribbled out and disembodied legs tied at the ankle bondage-style was a little more on the fringe.