Working a strict/soft contrast, Damir Doma demonstrated commercial savvy with a fall collection of fashiony yet wearable clothes. “The iron fist in the velvet glove,” the designer stated in his show notes. He translated the notion in ways that riffed subtly on grunge. A blue boxy cropped jacket was shown over a flimsy dress, for example. Doma also worked a few oversize, tailored coats, a key trend this season, his mannish in deep burgundy and blue jacquards or fuzzy brown ombre alpaca. Though these textured silhouettes were nice, Doma’s dark hues felt flat.

His best looks showed off an ease that was youthful while still sophisticated, as in the silk crepe de chine checked dress layered with a draped, plaid blanket skirt. It was grungy with a chic polish — a potent contrast.

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