After a month of shows, the final one comes with notable challenge. Many important editors are already en route home. Those who remain are fully jaded; the only thing keeping them going is the hope of some real sartorial magic.


On Wednesday afternoon, Hermès closed the season for the second time in a row. Christophe Lemaire ended it on a sophisticated note, with a lineup executed in the ultraluxurious vein the house is known for. Yet it, and the production, lacked a little luster to justify the timing.

The venue: the Paris Bourse, the set a labyrinth of rooms separated by drab velvet curtains. It gave the space a rich feel — a suitable, if heavy, backdrop to the clothes.

Lemaire riffed on many fall trends, most notably men’s wear via oversize coats and suits and textures boldly mixed in a variety of surfaces. There was an overall ease to the relaxed silhouettes, including the opening look, a chic gray coat over a white shirt and slouchy pants.

Standouts came with Lemaire’s play on the silk scarf. He worked it in unexpected ways — the back of a shearling vest, for example, or as the base of a silk-and-cashmere shell top shown with a decadent mustard-colored crocodile skirt.

This is Hermès, and so leather was key. Lemaire used it for a black draped dress and a dark green coat with an easy, sporty fit, among others. These luxe looks may not have had the desired spark on the runway, but served in an orange box, the effect is almost certain to be entirely different.

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