With every Hussein Chalayan show comes the expectation of the conceptual.

For fall, it was a trio of sheer dresses embroidered with grids of fake fingernails, two done in graphic black-and-white manicures, and one in classic pinks, reds and black. The ruse played out on layered gowns with slashes down the front that could have been the work of a sharp set of claws. If not his most intellectual or visually compelling gambit, the nails made for an imaginative moment in a collection otherwise focused on draped daywear.

Languid constructions are another Chalayan specialty, but here, the loose proportions drooped on generously cut tailoring and scarf dresses.

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