As part of her second women’s ready-to-wear presentation, Iris van Herpen delivered a selection of shimmering silver and black dresses that gracefully pooled like liquid around the body. This was a new, more accessible take on the designer’s organic sci-fi creations, which also included a cream dress worked in opal-colored beading and embroidery as well as jackets in fur and a faux stingray fabric. While the towering armadillo-shaped shoes were reminiscent of Alexander McQueen, they added to the dramatic silhouettes.
The strong collection managed not to be upstaged by van Herpen’s creepy runway installations. Artist Lawrence Malstaf encased three living, breathing women in supersize Ziploc bags, shrink-wrapped as to suggest suspended embryonic states. The enigmatic prose read by Philip Beesley also wasn’t necessary. Van Herpen’s work should be allowed to stand on its own.