There was a noticeable shift on Isabel Marant’s fall runway, where the designer did more than just hit “refresh” on her same-old look of a fitted jacket with pronounced shoulders tossed over skinny pants or a flimsy, flirty dress. She was due for a change. It felt good.

Instead of playing a one-note theme, Marant sampled several tomboy aesthetics: a cozy nomadic look, sulky military grunge and urban androgyny — all laced with a little glamour. An oversize black-and-white sweater with a tribal graphic was worn with a short wrap skirt and laced fur booties. A great tweed robe coat came over a chunky moss-green sweater and sequined skirt.

The collection felt much more substantial than recent seasons, with a heightened design quotient including a new proportion for pants: wide and slouchy with a high, paper-bag waist.

Marant didn’t abandon her signatures — the sharp shoulder jackets and leather rocker pants remained — but she took risks to balance the reliability.

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